Savouring Sidney and the Saanich Peninsula
Although you’d hardly know it as you speed along the billboard-lined highway to the Swartz Bay ferry terminal, the long, narrow peninsula between Saanich Inlet and Haro Strait is traced with country roads that meander through forests of gnarly Garry oaks, past lushly flowering gardens and along a rocky coastline perfect for hiking and biking. This is some of Canada’s most fertile farmland, where berries, tree fruits, field vegetables and herbs grow in abundance, and dairy cows, chickens and heritage pigs graze happily. But unlike most of Canada’s farms, these primarily ship their goods only a few kilometres—in some cases, a few metres—to the inns, pubs, markets and restaurants they supply.
So bring your shopping basket and your appetite, and join us for a two-day road trip along the Saanich Peninsula.
Day 1: Brentwood Bay and Deep Cove
When news broke over the holidays that Prince Harry and Meghan Markle were staying around Deep Cove, we could only nod in approval. The western side of the Saanich Peninsula feels like it’s a million miles away from the world, although it is, of course, not. Here you’ll find grand homes, peaceful hiking trails and sprawling gardens. There is also spectacular dining to enjoy and some of our favourite markets to shop.
For those travelling down Vancouver Island, the ferry from Mill Bay pops over to Brentwood Bay in just 25 scenic minutes, skipping the Malahat, all the congestion around Langford and the raceway that is the Patricia Bay Highway. Brentwood Bay is also the home of the lovely Brentwood Bay Resort, a good place to call home for a night or two. Start the day with a hearty breakfast in The Arbutus Room while enjoying the peaceful view of the bay, and plan to swing by the resort’s pub later for a glass of wine and some of the best sushi in the Victoria area.
The main attraction in this part of Saanich is the legendary Butchart Gardens, a show garden created more than a century ago from an old quarry. This is a National Historic Site of Canada, with five glorious gardens and more than 900 varieties of plants, including the rare Himalayan Blue Poppy that blooms in June. But one of the very best reasons to visit is the food. The Dining Room is part of the original family home, with turn-of-the-last century charm and a menu that celebrates local farmers. Afternoon tea (which starts at 1 p.m., so consider it lunch) is a must, with darling finger sandwiches, tempting sweets and savouries, like the West Coast smoked salmon tartlet.
After you’ve toured Butchart Gardens and enjoyed afternoon tea, work off the excesses of lunch by hiking the 36-hectare Horth Hill Regional Park, where the royal couple recently enjoyed the expansive hilltop views. If you have little ones with you, a trip to the Victoria Butterfly Gardens is a must, with a sweet stop at Mosi Bakery, Café and Gelateria afterwards. If you crave more adult pursuits, visit the tasting room at TWA Dogs Brewery & Victoria Caledonian Distillery and sample the exceptional single malt. And should you want to load up your cooler, stop in at the adorable Deep Cove Market for local organic produce, artisan cheeses and irresistible baked goods.
Whatever you do, plan to end your day at the Deep Cove Chalet, one of the most romantic restaurants on the Island. In the midst of a sculpture-filled garden overlooking the Saanich Inlet, chef-owner Pierre Koffel and his wife Bev serve up traditional French fare (sole meunière, caviar and blini, lamb provençale) and a legendary, globe-trotting wine list. Best of all, if you happen to overindulge just a tiny bit in all that good wine, you can always book one of their luxurious suites for the night.
Day 2: Sidney and Cordova Bay
The centre of the Peninsula is mostly filled with farmland, with Highway 17 (or, for cyclists, the Lochside Trail) snaking up the eastern side from Victoria to Swartz Bay. This coast is more populous than the western side, with a growing number of condos gazing out towards Washington State and the San Juan Islands.
Sidney by the Sea is the lively heartbeat of the area, a destination for boaters, sunseekers, retirees and eco-tourists alike. It is the gateway to the southern Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, home to the Shaw Centre for the Salish Sea and a magnet for bird and whale watchers. It’s also an official book town, with five bookstores in a community of 11,000 and has an exceptional selection of fish and chip joints to serve all your crispy battered halibut needs. The coolly contemporary Sidney Pier Hotel downtown is a convenient place to stay; consider this your base, and start exploring from there.
At the northern tip of the Peninsula, near the Swartz Bay ferry terminal, you will find The Stonehouse Restaurant & Pub, which is housed in an English-style manor that dates back to the 1930s. Closer to Victoria, in Cordova Bay, The Beach House Restaurant overlooks one of the best beaches on this coast. Pull up a seat, order the seafood chowder and in no time at all you’ll feel like a local.
In between are countless gems like Charlotte & the Quail, the country outpost of Victoria’s much-loved Nourish Kitchen & Café. It’s located on the grounds of the Horticulture Centre of the Pacific; after meandering through the botanical garden and saying hello to Charlotte, the garden kitten, stop in for a wholesomely delicious lunch of soup, salad and carrot cake.
If you’re craving a stronger pick-me-up, hit de Vine Wines & Spirits to sample the multiple-award-winning Glen Saanich single malt, or pop in to Sea Cider Farm and Ciderhouse, where Kristen Needham produces traditional apple ciders like the off-dry Kings & Spies or barrel-aged Rumrunner.
Back near Sidney and the airport, you will find two of the most quintessential farm-to-table establishments in Saanich. The Fickle Fig Farm Market serves its own sustainably grown produce at monthly dinners and in its bakery, which sells out of sourdough, brioche and focaccia loaves each morning. Nearby, The Roost Winery, Bistro & Farm Bakery might just be the epitome of Saanich’s farm-to-table culture. Enjoy a multigrain loaf or cinnamon bun made from the farm’s own freshly milled flour. Sample the Siegerrebe wine made from grapes grown on site. Stay for dinner and enjoy the peaceful farmland views as you tuck into a salad made from greens grown just a few metres away, or seafood fished from waters just a little bit farther.
End your day’s travels in Sidney proper with a nightcap, perhaps at The Farmer’s Daughter, where you can enjoy a selection of cheeses alongside a flight of wine, or maybe at Victoria Distillers. One of B.C.’s oldest artisan distilleries, it produces exceptional spirits, including the royally hued Empress 1908 gin. Take a seat at the bar, order a cocktail, and start planning your return visit. It’s never too soon to come back.
