Delicious Days in the Southern Gulf Islands
The geological alchemy that occurred in the formation of the Southern Gulf Islands hasn’t faded over time; in fact, the islands seem to sit a little beyond time’s reach. With a little BC Ferries schedule-mapping it’s easy enough, in just a weekend, to sail out of reach of the clock’s busy hands for an island fix—and I mean that literally, as in to be repaired—and immerse yourself in a few (though not all) of the islands’ unique food cultures, landscapes and charms. The journey is well worth the effort, especially if embarked upon with friends.
Pender Island
We arrive on Friday evening, each of us from different starting points—Vancouver, Victoria and the Comox Valley—but before settling in to our accommodations, we decide to taste some of the island’s offerings. This trip does require a car—some explorers elect to use a bike, but that’s a different sort of road trip.
Maybe you’ve heard of Sea Star Vineyards and Winery, which opened in 2014. Maybe you’ve even been lucky enough to sip their award-winning Blanc de Noir, but you really need to see the place to appreciate the magic of these wines, which, as proprietor David Gouge tells us, “come from the only vineyards in Canada to reach right down to the beach,” and hence inspired the name.
The wines, on lists in some Vancouver and Victoria restaurants, and carried in select stores (where they don’t stay long on the shelves), are perhaps best experienced in the winery itself, a historic community meeting place that is now a stunning feat of light and wood, where you can catch glimpses of the production. There’s a food truck on the premises—open to match the hours of the tasting room—and a garden where you can spread a picnic and take stock of the astounding quiet and golden-lit vineyards sloping up toward Mount Menzies. If there’s room in the car—or even if there’s not—buy a case for later; you won’t regret it.
Another elixir that comes of this island haven’s soil (and from heirloom apple and pear orchards on Mayne and Saturna Islands) can be sampled in the tasting room at Twin Island Cider. The cidery is a relatively new operation—releasing its first batches in 2016— but you’d never know; the knowledge of the makers is as impressive as their effervescent brew. The Fire Hall 2018—made from apples growing near the two fire halls on neighbouring Pender and Saturna islands—is a favourite among our group and sets the tone for our evening, at once bright and convivial.
WOODS on Pender is a truly unique property. 
You can choose from refurbished Airstreams, Rustic Cabins, Modern Bunkies, a Shasta Airflyte, or the WOODS Motel, where we plan to lay our heads, but we aren’t going to sleep any time soon. Did I mention I’m travelling with two old friends, one of whom I’ve known since elementary school? We still have much catching up to do, so we settle in for a meal at Coffee + Kitchen, WOODS chef and owner Curtis Redel’s farm-to-table restaurant. The space is an effortless mix of rustic and modern, and community support is apparent on the menu; both Twin Island Cider and Sea Star wines are available on tap. Redel, whose wealth of industry experience has culminated in one of the most distinctive comforts-of-home-camping experiences available, also prepares our meals, brimming with island ingredients. The house-made, melt-in-your-mouth gnocchi, rich with Chanterelles and Morels, is a dish I’ll be dreaming about for years to come. We finish off the night stargazing from the hot tub on the deck of the WOODS Motel.
If You Have Time: Plan on breakfast at the locals’ favourite Jo’s Place en route to the ferry, for their house-roasted muesli with fresh fruit, or one of the many Benny or Skillet options. And the Saturday Farmers' Market at the Community Hall is a great place to stock up on delicious fresh-baked goods and selections of Pender Island Pasta.
Mayne Island
Disembarking from the ferry at Mayne Island the next morning (a twenty-five minute hop from Pender), we take a wrong turn that funnels us past idyllic homes and fields shimmering with new spring growth. Out one window, we see Highland cattle grazing. Out the other, tangles of blooming Nootka rose.
Our detour eventually leads us to the Mayne
Island Brewing Company. We arrive around lunchtime to find the tasting room in full swing with road-tripping cyclists seeking liquid reward for their efforts. They’ve come to the right place. The vibe is friendly and the selection of beer eclectic and satiating. Owners and brewers Michael Garratt and Annette Witteman are on site pouring samples, available to chat about their passion project, which opened in December 2016 and yields three 140-litre batches per week. Witteman offers us a tour of the modest operation and a sniff of the in-progress Mayne Island Forager ale, an ever-changing brew that reflects what’s in season, this particular batch a celebration of the plentiful rhubarb being harvested on the island.
With a sample pack from Mayne Island Brewing, we head to the Farm Gate Store, a trove of specialty items and local treats with a deli that serves hearty soups, salads and sandwiches (for example, hummus with roasted eggplant, topped with pea shoots from Christina’s Garden). There are a few tables and blankets available to spread on the lawn, but a better option is to pack up your snacks and head to the slabs of sun-warmed rock at Campbell Point (Bennett Bay Park), or the lighthouse at Georgina Point—the entrance to Active Pass.
Our final stop on Mayne is The Groove. Island Kitchen, which hosts live music weekend evenings. We arrive before things get going and grab a table on the large covered patio with ocean glimpses. A Mayne Mule mixed with house-made ginger beer and a Pesto Mushroom pizza are just enough to fuel us on our way.
Galiano Island
Chef Josh Blumenthal makes our introduction to Galiano truly magical. Blumenthal, with experience in renowned Vancouver restaurants, is a relatively new islander who moved from the city with his partner to be closer to their food, community and passions. Blumenthal’s latest venture is the Trincomali Supper Club, which offers an incomparable pop-up dining experience—in this case at his quintessentially cool waterfront home. It isn’t just about the food (though it is all about that, too), but about the evening vista of the Trincomali Channel, the hummingbirds swarming the feeders, the porpoises breaching offshore, and the warmth of the hosts and fellow guests at the outdoor table. It is all this and plates of unexpected beauty (asparagus gazpacho scattered with borage flowers to start, fresh Oyster mushroom snacks served on beds of moss) showcasing island-foraged flavours paired with B.C. wines, seven courses in total. Blumenthal easily accommodated my vegetarian palate and is happy to make dietary adjustments when informed in advance. If you’re looking for a thoughtful, creative dining experience, look no further than a dinner party hosted by Josh Blumenthal, at his home or yours.
After feasting with Blumenthal and friends, we arrive home at the historic 20-room Galiano Inn and Spa. A cacophony of frogs and night-blooming flowers greets us. We stay up awhile on the seaside balcony, beside the outdoor fireplace, and enjoy a nightcap and more conversation.
The following day the ferry departs in late afternoon, so there’s still a little time to explore. From the Galiano Inn we meander over to Bowline Café for morning coffee, then peruse the shelves in Galiano Island Books. Around noon we head back to the Inn’s oceanfront wood-fired pizza terrace, La Leña. General Manager Ian Phyper joins us as the patio fills up. Phyper tells us the Inn has always been popular for weddings, but lately he’s increased its promotions of package trips (the Sunset Sail and Paddle Galiano kayak packages are a couple that piques our interest). A major perk: guests need not bring a car to the island. The Inn—located an easy five-minute stroll from the ferry terminal—has a service to shuttle you to and from other island highlights such as dinner with the Trincomali Supper Club. There are also smart cars and electric bikes available for exploring the island once you’re here.
After a stroll around Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park, it’s time to say our goodbyes. Sailing toward the mainland, I feel the 24-hour clock kick back in. Upcoming obligations swim into view. It’s okay, though, more bearable somehow, because the balm of the Southern Gulf Islands will linger long after you leave.
Additional Thoughts: Other accommodations on Galiano
include the well-known Bodega Ridge at the island’s north end comprised of seven cabins, each of which sleeps six. Its little sibling, Bodega Cove, offers five cabins, suitable for couples and small families. And lastly, the pastoral Woodstone Manor can accommodate 24 guests in its 12 stylishly appointed rooms and is fast becoming popular for micro-weddings and family reunions. Woodstone’s Restaurant and Patio, run by 3-Michelin star chef, Katsuyuki Sekihata, looks onto a horse rescue ranch’s nine wild acres, lending to the Woodstone’s overall bucolic feel.
