Galiano Getaway
When my wife Karen and I need a weekend getaway from our life on Vancouver Island, the Gulf Islands are our go-to destination. Each island has its own personality, with so much to discover. During one especially busy month this year, we decided that a getaway to Galiano was in order.
Extraordinary culinary experiences
We arrived hungry, eager to explore the island and find a fun place to have lunch. Woodstone Manor, a boutique inn with a fantastic restaurant, was the perfect choice. Within minutes of driving off the ferry, we were seated and enjoying the pastoral views. The smoked salmon croissant was delicious, and Karen loved her black bean burger. Chef Sharon Snow, who hails from Newfoundland and has competed on Food Network’s “Chopped Canada” twice, is new to Woodstone and told us how much she is enjoying getting to know her local farmers. 
Our next stop was Bellhouse Park. A short walk through a Garry oak meadow brought us to the rocky shoreline with interesting sandstone formations and incredible views of the Strait of Georgia and the busy entrance to Active Pass. April and May are the best months to visit this park, when the meadows are full of spring wildflowers.
After checking in to our beautiful oceanview villa at the Galiano Inn, we spent the rest of the afternoon anticipating our dinner at pilgrimme. Located in a cozy cabin in the woods above Montague Harbour, pilgrimme is a multiple award-winning restaurant where chef Jesse McCleery (photo right) promises a “coast, forest and farm-to-table” dining experience. It took three-and-a-half hours to get through the 10-course tasting menu with wine pairings.
Our favourite dishes included the delicately flavoured yellow pea tostada, with tuna, smoked eggplant and kale chips, the shrimp and nettle dumpling with shell broth, the sablefish with grilled cod bone broth and beach nori, paired with Emandare Rosé, and the aged duck with preserved plum, paired with a 2019 Rathjen Cellars Pinot Noir. It was one of the most extraordinary culinary experiences of our life. The tasting menu is not offered in the summer months, so we recommend visiting in the off-season (with a reservation).
The best of eating, hiking and relaxing
The next morning, we enjoyed our villa’s outdoor terrace with jetted tub and wood-burning fireplace. After our usual struggle to get a fire started, it was a great spot to enjoy our morning coffee, the views of Active Pass and the sound of the crackling fire.
After a continental breakfast provided by the Inn, we drove to the Mount Galiano trailhead and began our ascent of the island’s tallest peak. The seven kilometer hike is considered moderately challenging, and the views from the summit are amazing. Back at Sturdies Bay, the smoked beet and ricotta cheese baguette at Oxeye was the perfect post-hike lunch.
That evening we ordered takeout from Wild1, which serves Thai and Asian food from a food truck/cookhouse a short drive from the village. While waiting for our spring rolls, pad thai and curries, we had a bottle of Prosecco on the patio, enjoying live music from a one-man-band, who played the trumpet, drums and accordion, often simultaneously. We said “hi” to our waitress from pilgrimme, who was enjoying a dinner with friends. An elderly local, dancing in a vintage gown with flowers in her hair, added to the bohemian vibe.
The next morning, after a delicious brunch at Atrevida, the Inn’s waterfront restaurant, we drove to Montague Harbour Marine Provincial Park for a walk around the gorgeous Gray Peninsula, where we explored more sandstone formations on the shore and the spectacular white shell beach. Dionisio Point Provincial Park on the north end of the island has some of the best sandstone formations on the West Coast, but with access only by boat.
We worked up an appetite for a late lunch on the waterfront deck at The Crane and Robin, a gastro-pub at the Montague Harbour Marina. We ordered three types of tacos so that we could have one of each: the jerk pulled pork, tuna and Caribbean curry fish. They may have been the best tacos we’ve ever had. While I will never regret ordering a Hoyne beer with lunch, in hindsight we probably should have had their famous margaritas.
After a soak in the Inn’s hot tub, we spent the rest of the afternoon soaking up the late afternoon sun on the waterfront lawn. Atrevida serves a prime rib dinner every Sunday night, and it was delicious.
Before catching the ferry home the next morning we had breakfast at Sturdies Bay Bakery—so many delicious choices. We couldn’t resist picking up a loaf of their delicious sourdough, and wishing we could take more of the island home with us.
