Reap the Harvest
Recipe provided by DEVINE Distillery, photo by Noelle Quin
Autumn is a time of harvest, where nature’s bounty is celebrated in the form of food and drink. This cocktail is an autumn-inspired libati...
Whisky Culture on Vancouver Island
“It’s not whisky until it’s shared.”
It’s a refrain heard frequently at tastings presented by Adam Bradshaw, Strath Liquor Merchants' whisky curator, and perfectly captures the philosophy of a whisky culture on Vancouver Island that is as much about community as it is about consumption.
Sold-out events, brisk sales and plenty of online chatter reveal an active, dynamic community. And while whisky on the world stage has a prestigious reputation, Vancouver Island’s whisky community is more interested in peat levels than price.
What is whisky?
Whisky is a distilled drink made from fermented grain. The most commonly used grains are barley, corn, rye and wheat, but many Canadian distillers are now experimenting with other grains. To be called whisky in Canada, it must be aged for a minimum of three years in oak casks, and the alcohol by volume must be no less than 40%. In Canada, whisky can contain up to 9.09% of a flavouring, spirit or colouring.
Whisky: welcome to the community
In over seven years presenting whisky throughout Vancouver Island, Bradshaw has witnessed whisky repeatedly bring people of different generations together. ”People bring their parents or their kids to tastings. The whisky is something they can share in common.”
As founder of The Dram Association, a club focused on exploring whisky, Bradshaw has witnessed many people go from whisky curious to whisky enthusiast. “Someone is always interested in how it’s made and what the ingredients are, but we don’t take the facts and figures too seriously.” It sparks lively conversations ranging from what casks were used to what flavours are present.
No one is more familiar with the Island’s enthusiasm for whisky than Graeme Macaloney, founder of Macaloney’s Island Distillery. He has been all over the world talking whisky and was drawn to the unique culture on Vancouver Island. “We moved from Edmonton to Victoria to build our distillery because of the whisky culture here,” says Macaloney, who is keen to share that culture with the world. “Our bottles have an invitation to come and experience our unique Island.”
Beginning production in 2016, the distillery’s first expressions were released in late 2020. Macaloney noted that the enthusiasm for the whiskies was matched by an enthusiasm for experiences that explore a whisky’s heritage along with touching, tasting, smelling and sampling. While the distillery tours dig as deep as people want, Macaloney wants it to be accessible to all. “You have to have fun.”
Shawn Soole, lounge manager at Clive’s Classic Lounge credits an enthusiastic community for embracing Clive’s philosophy of “whisky is for everybody.” Clive’s recently earned World Whisky Hotel Bar of the Year for 2023 at the Icons of Whisky Awards presented by Whisky Magazine. Soole also received high praise, earning Bar Manager of the Year, Highly Commended - Rest of the World (the awards are split into five regions: America, Ireland, Scotland, India, Rest of World).
“Victorian’s love brown, bitter and strong,” says Soole, who appreciates the city’s longstanding love of whisky. “It’s a massive spirit on the Island.”
In addition to a massive international selection, Clive’s features over 50 B.C. whiskies, including multiple small batch releases. “You see places in Scotland with special bottlings and we do that with local whiskies,” says Soole, noting that the exclusivity of local distilleries appeals to visitors and locals.
Enthusiasm for local
Kevin Titcomb, head distiller at DEVINE Distilleries appreciates the unwavering local support of Island whisky enthusiasts. DEVINE produces spirits in a regional context, using local grains and other ingredients to create a region-specific flavour profile.
Balancing the traditional with the unique, they experiment with grains, techniques and casks for their whiskies. While global brands promise consistency year to year, DEVINE and other local distillers are keen to create a unique experience with each batch.
Terroir-driven Glen Saanich is made from barley grown minutes away on the Saanich Peninsula. “Year to year, Glen Saanich is going to be slightly different as the growing year affects the whisky,” says Titcomb. “People like to go back and compare their bottles from year to year.”
“The Island has always benefitted from people who are proud to be from the Island. It’s craft supportive,” says Rick Pipes, co-owner and head distiller at Merridale Cidery & Distillery. Merridale’s recent Father’s Day release of their seven-year-old Whisky Jack’s sold briskly as families flocked to Merridale for farm-to-table experiences. Finishing the whisky for two years in their own apple cider brandy barrels gave the whisky a unique profile that is part of the appeal.
“There are lots of great B.C. materials to work with and create,” says Pipes. “B.C. can focus on what it does well and make a name for itself as a region.”
Exploration and discovery
Artemis Whisky Bar (photo above right) opened in June 2022. A speakeasy tucked below ground level, the literary password to enter sets the stage for the unique experience of discovery that owner Vaibhav Patel envisioned as fundamental to the bar’s purpose. With a collection of whisky from almost every whisky-producing country, each visit is a chance to discover, and guests are eager for the opportunity.
“We find young people are coming in and trying things. They might have tried something in their Dad’s liquor cabinet and maybe they didn’t like it. When they come in and they say ‘I don’t know if you can change my mind but you can try.’”
This open-mindedness is notable throughout the whisky community as whisky drinkers gather to sample, share and discuss.
“We will have someone sitting at the bar who is an expert sitting next to someone who knows very little about whisky. They often start chatting and they will be talking about the whisky and sharing their thoughts,” says Patel.
Adam Bradshaw at The Strath has noticed the same thing. “It’s a hobby, but more so a community.”
Victoria Whisky Festival: victoriawhiskyfestival.com – January Comox Valley Whisky Festival: comoxrotary.ca/whisky-festival– February Wee Tipple Whisky Festival: facebook.com/WeeTippleFestivalNanaimo – March Cowichan Valley Whisky Festival: duncandaybreakrotary.org - March Highland Games Whisky School: victoriahighlandgames.com/attractions/whisky-school – May Dram Association at the Strath: strathliquor.com/shop/dram-association (It's free to sign up for this club and be notified about special events and tastings, which provide lots of educational opportunities.) Clive’s Classic Lounge: clivesclassiclounge.com (Monthly tasting events including guest distillers and bartenders. Sign up online to be notified.) |
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