Edible Notables: Category 12 Brewing

Karen Elgersma recently caught up with Michael and Karen Kuzyk of Category 12 Brewing in Central Saanich to find out what Victoria’s beer scientist is brewing up next and to discover what deliciousness is being served in their new “Food Lab.”

How does Michael’s background in microbiology and biochemistry influence the kind of beer Category 12 creates?

Our mission statement starts with the words “you don’t have to have a PhD to make great beer...but it sure helps.” The myriad facets of all aspects of our business are under Michael’s watchful eye, and it turns out that being a stickler for detail is more than helpful in producing consistently high-quality brews that we, and our team, can be proud of.

You say you combine sound science with good taste and art; how does that translate to the kind of craft beer you are making?

There’s always a subjective element to both taste and art, but the foundations of science as they relate to the brewing process need to be sound. Part of the reason we find this industry fascinating is because of that important interplay between the processes we can control (such as the science, branding and aspects of the brewing process) with those we can’t, like a particularly cranky yeast strain that takes months or even years to finish its work—looking at you, Brettanomyces!

Why is it important to brew in small batches?

For us, part of what makes “craft” is no shortcuts: there’s no automation in our brewing process, and our hands-on approach and attention to detail mean we’re really good at controlling the end result for optimal and consistent tastiness.

Category 12 has one of the most beautiful tasting rooms I have experienced, featuring fresh flowers, funky orange and turquoise décor and unique beer art hanging on your walls. As a husband and wife team, how does Karen’s passion for craft beer influence your brand?

Having a taproom that helps to enliven the brand experience was absolutely essential to this endeavour. We wanted our passion to come across in a way that was (and continues to be) genuine to us, and we felt it was important to challenge people’s perceptions of what taprooms (and the people who are in them) are. You’ll notice we’ve steered clear of repurposed pallet wood and instead embraced a lab-like nod to the mid-century vibe that resonates with us so much. You can rock your stilettos and pearls and still be at home in the craft beer world!

Category 12 also has a “Food Lab.” Tell us about the bistro and how this fits into your vision for how you want people to experience your beer.

The addition of a small kitchen armed with a passionate chef really rounds out the responsible taproom experience for us. We feel strongly that the social nature of sharing a beer or flight is enhanced by being able to enjoy food created right in front you. We are delighted to have Chef Chris Compton on our team!

Sourcing local has been part of your story from the beginning, but how exactly do local ingredients factor into your process?

Connections are really what our currency is here in Central Saanich. Many of our previous beer releases have utilized ingredients from here in the Peninsula (eg. fruit from Gobind Farm and Silver Rill Berry Farm), and our kitchen has expanded our ability to support businesses such as Saanich Organics, Haus Sausage Co. and Four Quarters Meats. We see craft beer as embodying the terroir of a region, just like wine, and we look forward to a time when we can source even more base ingredients from our neighbours!

What does the future hold for Category 12?

As soon as we are able, we look forward to fully embracing our role as a community hub. Being able to give back to the community and people through charitable events is a priority, in addition to simply providing a safe and fun environment where you’re able to enjoy food and drink made by people who are passionate about what they do. Simple pleasures done well, and shared.

The Edible Notables Series is proudly sponsored by Beacon Law Centre.