Milk Made
B.C. dairy producers face complex regulations and lengthy approval processes in order to deliver safe products to the public. Few industries can compare to the kind of red tape that dairy farmers must adhere to, and while the laws are designed to ensure pathogens don’t find their way into commercially sold milk, intense regulation can often leave small-scale farmers with shrinking profit margins. Many independent dairy farmers have found themselves unable to innovate and diversify their business within the parameters of such strict regulations.
But that tide is beginning to change, with Vancouver Island starting to see the return of small-scale dairy farmers with new business models. This shift from monolithic milk distribution back to regional farms can’t come soon enough for the communities who want to improve their local food resiliency and support nearby agriculture.
Shifting milk mindsets
Of the few benefits of COVID-19, one was a big return to the focus on local: when non-critical shops shuttered during the height of the pandemic, more people sought out the services of nearby farms and food producers to keep their pantries stocked. 
Businesses that were able to shift to online or self-serve models flourished in the face of store closures, and the agility of the Cowichan Milk Company is no exception. This family farm manages a herd of 50 Holstein cows, grass-fed for most of the year with grains and alfalfa to supplement as needed. The vanBovens were originally selling all of their milk to Island Farms, but had a vision to bring back bottle service by rebooting home milk delivery.
Their delivery service was established just in time to meet the sudden demand for milk at the onset of the pandemic, when exchangeable glass jars (like the kind Cowichan Milk Company used) were pulled from the shelves. It has since grown into a burgeoning delivery business that not only brings their farm-fresh milk to Cowichan Valley homes, but also supports a multitude of other Vancouver Island farmers, makers and growers by offering more than 400 additional products that can be added on to delivery orders.
“The community response to our home delivery service has been amazing!” says Cowichan Milk Company co-owner Margie vanBoven. “During the last two-and-a-half years we had major growth, and people appreciated not having to go to the store, and at the same time know that they were supporting small businesses on Vancouver Island. We serve young to not-so-young, and the smiles the ‘milkman’ gets when he delivers says it all to us!”
Doing dairy different
Promise Valley Farm & Creamery is a small family-run farm in Duncan with big community support. Their popular self-serve dispensing machine serves up fresh organic grass-fed milk from their herd of 12 Guernsey cows, and when you see the pale golden yellow liquid pouring out of the machine and into your one-litre glass bottle, that’s your first clue that you’re about to taste something special.
Guernsey cows are a small heritage breed, and according to Promise Valley owners Caroline and Mark Nagtegaal, an amazing animal to work with due to their gentle temperament. They also produce milk that is rich in flavour, high in butter fat and beta-carotene, low in sugar and easy on our digestive systems.
Cows produce two types of beta-casein protein: A1, which is the type of most cows’ milk, or A2, which is the same type you would find in goat’s milk. Guernsey cows produce A2 milk, so it is much easier to digest, especially for people with common dairy sensitivities. Promise Valley doesn’t add anything to their milks, nor do they take anything away, and the result is a completely natural and organic cream-top non-homogenized milk.
The Nagtegaals started out as conventional dairy farmers, but after eight years in the business, they realized they would need to pivot to direct-to-consumer sales if they wanted to survive—and that meant they needed to build their own processing plant. It was a 36-month journey to secure approvals and reach organic certification for their 25-acre farm and herd, but now Promise Valley is the only organic dairy farm and processing plant on Vancouver Island. They also have the distinction of being the only certified organic Guernsey herd in all of Canada.
“Part of our business model was to do dairy different. We want to show that this can be profitable, and we want to be some kind of advocate for another small dairy farm to start. I believe the public wants to see small farms again,” says Caroline.
And while the life of a farmer is a tiresome job with early mornings and long days, the response from the community makes it all worthwhile. “It’s the most fulfilling and satisfying life, if you can find your balance,” Caroline says. “It feels good to work this hard and to provide this beautiful food that I feed to my own family.”
Photo of Guernsey cow by Dorota Lockyer
