Celebrating 20 years of Tofino’s SoBo, together
SOBO, short for “sophisticated bohemian,” is a must-stop during a visit to the popular and picturesque town of Tofino on the west coast of the Island. Having started as an eye-catching purple food truck in 2003, it has since grown into an award-winning, full-service restaurant renowned for its grassroots gourmet cuisine using local, organic and wild foraged ingredients from land and sea. Cuisine that is commemorated in the award-winning, The SoBo Cookbook—first released back in 2014, and which quickly achieved bestseller status as eager patrons clamoured to recreate a taste of Tofino and their favourite SoBo dishes at home.
In parallel with the recent celebration of SoBo’s 20th anniversary, head chef and owner, Lisa Ahier has just released SoBo, Together, rewarding patient readers and visitors with an extension of the first cookbook after nearly a decade. “I had more recipes to share, stories to tell, this book just flowed,” she shares. For those who are only able to visit once in a while, the book offers the opportunity to finally recreate popular dishes missing from the first book. Then there are the pizzas, soups and sandwiches, starters, and salads, followed by entrees and desserts, all infused with that signature SoBo style that showcases Tofino and Ahier’s Southern influences. Recipes that have been repeatedly tested by Ahier—ensuring they truly work and feel cooked from the heart, as is Ahier’s way, when cooked at home, rather than simply being pretty, or overcomplicated. And then of course its pages also pay homage to the rich community behind-the-scenes of SoBo, whether they are on-site like Brenda Schwab who tends SoBo’s gardens, local producers, or other collaborators like photographer Jeremy Koreski and his wife, Sarah Davies-Long. It’s an emblem of Ahier’s collaborative, supportive ethos: “I like to give credit where it’s due, I couldn’t do any of this alone, it’s team, team, team!” 
This feeling of togetherness extends to the inclusion of family in the SoBo story for Ahier: “My kids are very much part of anything I do at SoBo”. Fittingly, it was her 17-year-old daughter, aspiring writer, Ella, who accidentally came up with the book’s final name by citing the idea of being “together at SoBo” in her foreword for the book. Ahier’s ability to curate a flourishing restaurant while encouraging her staff to live their best life, seems to have drawn a predominantly female team into her in-house workforce. While not intentional, she’s found almost 95% of her staff are women—drawn to Ahier’s way of working which juxtaposes the infamous intensity usually found in kitchens, and her want to support women that also have other commitments like their own businesses (like Tamara Neale who owns The Hobbyist) or young families.
As you step inside the space, a bright venue full of warm tones and colourful locally-sourced artwork, the camaraderie is palpable. It's a relaxed affair and staff are ready to share insight on favourite dishes from a menu that seeks to “tread very lightly on the food chain,” as is Ahier’s personal preference. It is light on meat options—“there are other spots in town that do meat really well already”—with encouragement to try something you might not usually. The focus is on vegetarian options and locally-sourced seafood, influenced by the season, local producers, and what can currently be foraged close to town, like seaweed, sunchokes, and nettles in spring. Standout dishes are the crunchy polenta fries—just three are plenty filling— the hearty but light chowder (that doesn’t hold back on the portion of salmon), and the Veggie Tostadas. A number of salads, more seafood, and the likes of a Tofu Pocket, all highlight Aheir’s ability to have fun with international flavours, while showcasing her Southern roots and Tofino’s coastal ingredients, across a limited lunch menu.
When it comes to drinks, the SoBo margarita is a must-try. But there are also other locally-inspired offerings featuring Tofino Distillery spirits and encompassing the west coast setting with names like Tuff Mule and SoBo Sunset. Mocktails and Vancouver Island craft beers are also on offer. For dessert, the SoBo Cookie in a few different flavours has folks stopping by whether they’re dining in or not. And it’s also worth noting that Ouest Patisserie has taken up residence in the glass cabinets upfront, and you can order their yummy offerings to your table. An iridescent, galaxy-inspired egg shape appeared on our table when we ordered the Japanese cheesecake. Somewhat enamoured, we gently prodded it apart to discover three light but exceptionally flavoursome layers that included jelly and sponge.
This collaboration is another symbol of the interconnectedness and support throughout Ahier’s local community, and the wealth of stories behind-the-scenes when visiting SoBo—from the dishes to the art on the walls, the staff’s lives outside its four walls, and Ahier’s colourful journey throughout the States and finally to Tofino. A place that despite plans to move all over the world intuitively felt like home, with a knowing “uh oh” to her partner on first visiting. A place that now has its spirit encapsulated by her restaurant, and now in the pages of SoBo, Together too.
