Quadra and Cortes

There are few things more alluring on a summer’s day than a visit to the Gulf and Discovery Islands; the chance to seek out artistic communities, indulgent treats, fresh ingredients, vineyards and quiet beachy coves in the sunshine beckons to locals and tourists alike. 

Arriving on Quadra is to be transported to a calmer world, despite only being separated by a 10-minute ferry crossing from Campbell River. “Island time” is a real thing here—perfect for meandering between forests and glittering clear waters on bike, foot or by car. Continue on to Cortes and the peaceful separation from hectic life only heightens as the ocean opens and the phone service dwindles. As with many of our coast’s islands, the Discovery Islands may be quiet but they are abundant—rich in produce, nature and creative inspiration.

Farm-to-table 
 

Timing our visit for a Saturday farmers’ market led to an instant connection with Quadra’s vibrant community—a quick walk from the ferry if you’re considering a day trip. Dotted amidst local produce is an opportunity to get your fill of local pottery, soaps, handwoven baskets and other creations. We gathered some goodies, including handmade chocolates by L.B. Sweet Treats (which are quick to sell out and are a delight for both eyes and stomach) and some Hot Dam Jam to take back home. 

With our treats and seasonal vegetables secured, we ambled through the small core area ducking into gift stores and Book Bonanza. Then into Kameleon Food and Drink for lunch, where I’m often stuck for choice on the variety of hyper-fresh handhelds, soups and salads. 

Satiated and somewhat sleepy, we opted to revive ourselves at Café Aroma, a modern barista-standard spot popular with both locals and tourists. Eager to take in Quadra’s views, it was a coffee and chai for the road to Shellaligan Pass Trail, a 3.7km trail that passes through the forest, hugs the coast and drops into empty beaches for an afternoon swim opportunity. 

Secret spots 
 

Similar to many of the islands, it’s well worth keeping your eye out for roadside stalls as you traverse Quadra—as was the case when we swung into a driveway near Heriot Bay at the sight of a “local spot prawns” sign, where we were met by a fisherman (who shared he’d be taking his trap spots to the grave with him) before parting with a tub of prawns. The makings of a delicious oceanside meal were coming together.

Few better spots exist to take in the sunset than Rebecca Spit. Heading there next, we secured one of the waterfront public barbecues to enjoy the epitome of a B.C. summer evening. A glass of wine from SouthEnd Farm Winery was the perfect accompaniment to our seafood dinner. When the winery is open, it’s certainly worth a stop for the full experience, but you can also find their bottles in Quadra’s grocery stores. Feeling adventurous, celebrating an occasion, or both? Try the 2021 Gathering: a sweeter dessert wine, infused with chai spices from Cortes’ Gathering Place (a family-owned business of teas and herbs, who also do a great mulled wine spice come winter). If you’re in more of a classic mood, a crisp and cold glass of the 2019 Virga is a sure winner.

As the last of the light dipped away, we packed up and headed for what was no doubt going to be a deep night’s sleep—dozy on fresh air and warm sun. Located on the Spit is the We-Wai-Kai campsite, while a plethora of B&Bs offers the chance of further local knowledge. Another option is the beautiful oceanfront Tsa-Kwa-Luten Lodge, which also houses the Hama?Elas Dining Room and offers coastal-inspired fare. 

Cortes Cuisine
 

Fuelled by coffee from Java Bay, we caught the ferry over to Cortes. The 40-minute crossing reaffirms the opportunity to indulge in a slower pace—something that the cafe, and programs, at the Hollyhock Centre encourages on arrival too. Hollyhock delivers meaningful experiences rooted in sustainability and personal growth, facilitating all kinds of workshops on wellness, innovation and creativity. Its eatery, filled with unique, internationally inspired dishes and organic produce from their own garden, as well as sustainably-sourced meat and fish, is open for breakfast, lunch, dinner and Oyster Saturdays. 

Renting or bringing a water vessel is a great way to pass your time on Cortes. If you’re not up for a paddle, you can still take a dip; especially popular are the clear, calm waters and sandy beach at Manson’s Landing and Smelt Bay. Exploring the island on foot is another option—be sure to stop by the viewpoint at Red Granite Point.

After all our exploration, we went in search of a solid meal. Cortes is not abundant in restaurants, so come prepared and keep opening hours in mind. At the Gorge Harbour Marina Resort, you’ll find a beautiful patio that overlooks the marina where you can enjoy a fresh seafood dinner and glass of wine. Otherwise, your best bet beyond Hollyhock, or burgers and bannock at the Flying Squirrel takeaway, is to curate a picnic dinner from the Cortes Natural Co-Op—full to bursting with organic local goods, seasonal produce and a deli. In the summer, Papa’s Takeout also springs into action in the parking lot of the Co-Op, offering Greek-inspired burgers, fish and chips, calamari, and, most importantly, ice cream.

On our final morning, we swung by the Co-Op’s Espresso Bar for freshly roasted coffee before joining Hollyhock’s nine o’clock garden tour. Another day of beach time was had before an afternoon ferry back to Quadra, where the Coveside Seafood Eatery in Quathiaski Cove offered a final foodie moment before our ferry home. Ultimately, a long weekend wasn’t enough time to fully experience these islands. While sparse of bustle, the produce stands, eateries, artists and easy pace makes them a destination plausible for a full week nibbling on tasty goods in front of open skies and turquoise waters.