The Spiced Plum Shrub
Juicy plums are combined with apple cider and white balsamic vinegar, then rounded out with warming spices to create a charming fall shrub. Plums should be soft to the touch to maximize sweetness and ...
Fall Shrubbery
My yard was once inhabited by a rather fine plum tree. Prior to it reaching fruit-bearing age, this tree succumbed to a pest invasion and met an untimely demise, along with my dreams of freshly picked plums for cakes, cobblers and preserves. As such, it is with considerable chagrin that I write this piece; still, I raise a glass to the memory of this tree with a splendid fall-inspired drink—a plum shrub.
Shrubs, in the beverage world, are acidulated fruit drinks made from a combination of three basic ingredients: fresh fruit, sugar and vinegar. The result is a sweet, tart syrup which can be enjoyed on its own or blended with seltzer or alcohol. Shrubs date back to the early 19th century and were originally intended for preserving fruit. However, with the invention of refrigeration, the shrub evolved to be consumed primarily for its thirst-quenching abilities.
While shrubs make an excellent hot weather drink, they can, and should, be enjoyed all year round. With a vast array of fruit, vinegar and sugar varieties available, a plethora of pairings can be created: balsamic, sherry or champagne vinegars, and sugars like demerara, coconut or even honey can be used to accompany a seasonal fruit. Herb, bitters and other aromatics can also be added to create a more complex flavour profile.
While almost any fruit can be used for shrub making, berries and drupes (peaches, plums etc.) are the most common. Plums grow well into the autumn months and, when mixed with warming spices and a light vinegar, make a delightful shrub. Add an ounce of liquor, and you have a dazzling apéritif suitable for any fall menu.
The key to creating a perfect shrub is balancing acidity and sweetness—most recipes start with a 1:1:1 ratio of fruit, sugar and vinegar, but slight adjustments can be made. Most importantly though, a good shrub is made with really good ingredients: use fresh, ripe fruit and a high-quality vinegar, especially if you opt for wine-based. Moreover, it’s important to consider the preparation method: cold processing, as opposed to hot processing, can result in a brighter flavour depending on how long the ingredients mingle (several hours to days). My preference is to cold process, but the hot method yields a delightful end product as well.
Because of the high acid and sugar content, some shrub enthusiasts are fine keeping their blend at room temperature; however, refrigeration in a sealed, sterilized container is a far safer option. Refrigerated shrubs can last several weeks once opened, but if your shrub shows any signs of bubbles, cloudiness, discolouration, mold, etc., discard it and start over.
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