Road Tripping Off-Island: Pepino's Spaghetti House in Vancouver
Everyone loves a great foodie road trip, and since we Islanders tend to find ourselves in Vancouver a few times each year, we decided to try somewhere new on a recent visit. Intrigued by the story of Pepino’s Spaghetti House on Commercial Drive, we set out for an Italian dinner, not quite sure what to expect.
Taking over the much-loved Nick’s Spaghetti House location in Vancouver’s Little Italy, the team from Osteria Savio Volpe opened this second location just over a year ago. The name "Pepino’s" refers to the character in the 1950’s Lou Monte song, "Pepino the Italian Mouse," a subtle reference to Nick Felicella’s racehorse, Spaghetti Mouse. Paying homage to Nick’s original vision and to the nostalgia of the day, the ambience and menu both take you back in time.
Walking through the doors, we felt as though we were part of a Broadway show in New York, working amongst a cast of actors brought together to celebrate the Italian immigrant communities of the early 20th century. With dark wooden tables, red upholstered seats, gold-framed artwork and an indescribable energy amid staff and customers, this was obviously a neighbourhood favourite, a welcoming space where regular customers come to enjoy a leisurely meal with family and friends.
While the menu reads old-school with favourites such as spaghetti bolognese and chicken piccata, most of the dishes have a modern-day twist, using house-made pasta, organic meats and local produce. We opted for the share-style tasting menu, complete with wine pairings suggested by our server—on this occasion, a nice balance of primarily old-world wines.
The avocado salad itself was worth the trip, with red cabbage and kale topped with avocado, beets, pistachios and burrata cheese—not what you would expect from a spaghetti house. 
Fresh pappardelle was topped with a meaty short rib ragu, and the grilled lamb chops were tender and, as expected, perfectly prepared. The large plastic bibs were an interesting touch (missed that photo opportunity, go figure), and of course the tiramisu was the perfect decadent ending.
I love the old-world charm and boisterous vibe of Pepino's. Customers are comfortable chatting with strangers at nearby tables, and everyone is made to feel as though they're part of the neighbourhood.
If you're in the area, Pepino’s can be found at 631 Commercial Drive, Vancouver. Call 604.254.5633 to make reservations, or find them online at pepinos.ca and on social media @PepinosSpaghettiHouse.
